Mentioning coffee, chocolate and tobacco didn’t make me think of Nicaragua at the time. I might have had Guatemala or Cuba in mind instead. Yet recent and earlier history proves otherwise. The context of the Cold War and the US embargo on Cuba prompted Nicaraguan peasants to « diversify » from traditional, non-mechanized agriculture and to specialize, often in spite of themselves. Of course, there’s Cuban-style sugar cane, but who would have thought that during those years of red witch-hunting, the American cigar consumer would be biting between the lips a « puro nica », Estelí tobacco leaves and a heavy, thick smoke like that of a volcano.
Estelí, Matagalpa and the northeast of the country are the country’s major coffee, tobacco and cocoa producers. Further down, León and its region are more into peanuts. And even further down, near Granada, we learn that chocolate is also made here and that the famous Las Flores coffee grows on a slope of the Mombacho volcano. Incredible!
Chocolate is a bit of a pet peeve of mine, as my lovely mother would have explained. She’s always delighted to leave a few slabs of Belgian chocolate in the suitcases of people visiting me here in Nicaragua. I always enjoy these precious gifts, and they don’t last long. And I’d never really thought about the cocoa produced in the country where I live. Northern Nicaragua is well stocked with coffee, tobacco and cocoa! It’s almost an invitation, or at least the best excuse, to visit, that’s for sure. However, a quick glance around the local « supermercados » had me wondering several times. Nicaraguan chocolate was written on the labels, Mombacho, Castillo, Momotombo or other names of volcanoes, packaging illustrated with sketches of rare birds or petroglyphs, are names that are familiar to me today. I don’t recall ever having heard of Nicaraguan cocoa in Europe, although it does exist. Those who are familiar with and love the bean are well aware of the brands and labels likely to offer such an exotic product.
This is it! We’re in! The jefe has called, offering to continue getting to know all our friends at the agency. He knows all the service providers very well indeed. I’d realized that when I’d been down south. « You absolutely must go and see Donald, » he says. I smile stupidly and think of a tall, disheveled blond and his black sedan. Donald lives in a community on the slopes of the Mombacho volcano, nothing like the better-known gringo. A few years ago, he got into the habit of welcoming Spanish aid workers to develop an activity in the community, an economic initiative, solidarity tourism, revolving around chocolate! Ah, good! That’s great! Noted. I’m normally more of a beach person, but my sweet tooth got the better of me on this one, so I had to see Donald!
Mombacho is a volcano in the middle of a siesta, overlooking the town of Granada. Looking at the lush vegetation, it’s easy to imagine that local farmers are exploiting this seemingly fertile land. We call Donald and head out of town. A quick visit to the Las flores coffee finca, a look at the volcano and its incredible view of the lake, and we’re lost on a side road approaching the volcano.
Not far from Granada, Donald is looking for us and greets us with an open smile. He’s tall and lean, middle-aged and has an infectious smile. He quickly explains the background to his project. We introduce ourselves and share a juice with his family. We have lunch together. It‘s a privileged moment, I can feel it. But we also sense that our host is expecting something very special from our visit. He looks passionate, wishing the lunch break would fade away so he could finally put his few cocoa beans on the fire. The chocolate workshop begins. It smells delicious! An hour later, the stains on the children’s clothes are proof that the discovery of this local mini chocolate factory has been a real success. I’d rather not say any more and keep it a surprise. We left Donald and his smile with our pockets full of chocolate spread. A little friendship was born, and I tried to explain to him my fondness for chocolate marked with an elephant, like a childhood memory. Say hello to him for me if you’re passing by, and enjoy!
Want to explore Nicaragua? Here are a few ideas just for you:
