Before leaving for Ometepe, I tried to recall the memories I had of this island planted in the middle of Lake Nicaragua, Lake Cocibolca and its two enormous volcanoes, its isthmus and its luxuriant nature. I had a special memory of this place. I remember so many people who had been there talking about the experience and energy they felt on the lake’s largest island. Accessible by ferry, fast and safe, it doesn’t take long to reach the port of Moyogalpa, the small capital of Ometepe.
Water, Earth, Fire and Wind, the four elements. Maelle’s remark was right: the elements are everywhere in Ometepe.
The Wind
It blows hard around here. From the ferry crossing to the short hike to a viewpoint, its refreshing air currents are like a trap for the most sensitive. Sunburns are to be feared. Should you wear a long sleeve and a cap? The wind becomes a blessing, as it would otherwise be stifling. A few thrill-seekers have had the chance to kite surf in the area, and the locals have fond memories of this enormous kite dragging its pilot across the lake like a doll. Consider yourself lucky to be able to find equipment for hire – anything is possible in Nicaragua.
Fire
The volcanoes are imposing on the island – they’re all you can see! It’s incredible. Concepción is an active volcano. The proposed trek is solid and sporty.
Opposite, the Maderas volcano lies dormant, and its access and « bosque de lluvia », a humid forest, are a real surprise. Anything else? Hike around its lagoon! Volcanoes become a great place to explore. There’s no visible lava like at Masaya volcano, but it’s a real thrill to climb or walk along the island’s various paths. It’s volcanic and hot. The locals seem peaceful, and the health crisis has given this place a sense of emptiness, powerful nature and arrested moment, once again.
Water
Water is everywhere, and it’s fresh! Swimming is possible at any time and in almost any place.
Some sites in the interior of the island are full of small waterfalls, streams or « rios ». Ojo de agua is a huge natural pool of volcanic water shaded by rainforest trees. Families live off the lake and the various water sources located on the volcanoes. It’s a real pleasure to let go and glide along the rio in a kayak, in the isthmus and its arm of water. Alone among the birds and thick vegetation. It’s green, wild and wet, the migratory birds have found the right spot, it’s magnificent, a veritable Eden. The horses also come here to cool off, to rest after working in the fields.
The Earth
Ometepe looks like it could be self-sufficient and cut off from the world. Everything seems to grow, and fruit and vegetables are available all year round.
We then realize that permaculture and rural tourism projects had flourished well before 2020. The roadsides are often occupied by horses, carts and some of the local produce on board. The photo and the panorama invite us to stop and appreciate life and its rhythm, dominated by volcanoes. Volcanoes make the land fertile, and this is reflected in the food. But that’s not all. With tourism absent this year, many guides and local service providers have returned to their family farms, the fincas. Everyone cultivates their own little plot of land, and some fish. Ometepe really gives us its heart, and life seems both simple and complicated. The land, the climate and the local people seem to have come to terms with each other long ago. It’s a must-see!
