Discovery trips, where we go into the unknowm to explore a region and meet potential suppliers, is the « fun » part of a travel agency’s work in Nicaragua. Although we very much appreciate the tranquility of our life on a small, isolated beach.
This time, we need to go south, to get to know the local service providers there! See if they’d simply be open and operational by the end of the year.
Going south was a good idea, as it’s a nerve center for the adventurers and travelers we welcome to Nicaragua. The beaches around San Juan del Sur are probably the most beautiful we’ve come across in our short existence. Beyond the many surf spots, the abundant nature reserves and proximity to Costa Rica give great hope for the workers in the region, be they fishermen, waiters, hotel managers or local entrepreneurs. The road is nice, that’s a plus…
Let’s head south, then, and take a few days to see if we can still find some « spots » open during this « maldita pandemia ». Lodging is still very simple here, and renting a house lost in the jungle 5 minutes from the beach seems to be the best compromise, to protect ourselves and others. Booked and ready to go!
A few hours on a well-tarmacked road won’t tire you out, and then you’ll have to turn off towards the ocean via a series of trails. A stopover in San Juan del Sur is a must, to get a feel for what this fishing village, now a Nicaraguan surfing mecca, has become. Shops and some hotels are open, but with great care. It’s very quiet, but the weekend seems to resemble the free days of yesteryear, an almost normal influence, based on national tourism of course.
This fishing village is no longer a fishing village after all, as the surrounding hills have seen the blossoming of pretty houses and rather nice hotels. We make the rounds and get lost in front of some of the menus displayed in front of the Chinese, Italian or other restaurants. What a pleasure, all we have to do is walk a few « cuadras » or blocks to come across surf shops, souvenir stores and other « tiendas » with local charm. The buses and cabs are waiting for us to get back to normal, however, sitting on the steps lining the park next to the church. It’s almost deserted at the moment, and at the end of the street, we can make out a few masts bobbing in the bay below, 200 meters away. Our gaze stops on the portrait of Sandino, national hero, and our thoughts wander. We think of the country’s rich history and the stories we hear about the San Juan Del Sur of twenty years ago. It was the same, young people fished more and surfed less, no doubt.
Debbie, a Dutchwoman living with her husband, welcomes us and lends us the house, a superb cottage lost in the jungle, 5 minutes from Playa Remanso, 10 minutes from the heart of San Juan Del Sur. We’re not so isolated after all, but the impression is good, especially the first one.
Let’s continue our journey, further south towards the border with Costa Rica. Everything is green and much more expensive, I used to think when I was passing through. Today, the south is accessible and not too crowded.
What a pleasure it is to ride and get lost on the trails looking for our service providers or guides, often friends of more or less long standing. We can feel that it’s complicated for everyone, but we realize that these people have a much greater ability to bounce back than we do. No surfing lessons? Go fishing! had slipped in a friend on the way.
An hour’s drive south and Ostional opens its doors to us, the last village before the border. On its beach, you can see the coast of neighboring Costa Rica, where « lanchas » used to roam, legally or otherwise. Today it’s pretty quiet, » said the former reserve guard and now guide. The latter used to mark with paint, the yellow mark, every turtle that came to lay its eggs on the beach of the reserve next door. At the La Flor reserve, up to 17,000 turtles come to lay their eggs over a three-day period. « Laying? from July to December, » says Daniel.
the little turtles often take to the water from September to March, and it’s an unforgettable sight! Let’s finish our visit with a swim on the famous playa el coco. Big and lost, with white sand everywhere and clear, cool water, it’s just what we need. All you have to do is grab your board and enjoy. It was on this beach that we fell in love with the country in 2013, Maelle was pregnant at the time and we were staying in a guesthouse nearby, the only one, closed today. No problem! Another owner has converted his residence into a small, classy and rustic guesthouse to welcome travelers – a good compromise! Authentic! We’ll make a note of it.
The main objective of the reconnaissance had been achieved, and it was time to see how the reserve was working and to meet Daniel once again. This place is more than recommendable, it’s a must-see in the south, that’s for sure! And our guide guarantees plenty of surprises. Why not finish on the reserve’s beach after a fishing trip? Is it possible to eat the fruit of your catch on el coco? We could surf Yankee and end up in the reserve too, » I asked. What do you think?
A few days go by quickly when we’re having a good time – that’s the problem with vacations, as you well know. Reconnaissance is a bit like a vacation, » Antoine told us. And he was right. And to finish with a visit to all the beaches around San Juan del Sur was no mean feat. Virgin surf spots and hiking trails everywhere! Open, smiling villages! Incredible trails and green surroundings! And surprises, as always in Nicaragua.
From the cool hotel with infinity pool and incredible views to the cheap and delicious restaurant, from the local guide turned fisherman to the Sunday surfing cab driver! We were never bored, and we’d be delighted to share our tips and ideas with you. Many of our tailor-made tours include a stopover here in San Juan del Sur, but we think that extending your stay here beyond two nights can be well worth it! The region is Nicaragua’s version of neighboring northern Costa Rica, only greener and cheaper. It’s much more than the land of lakes, volcanoes and waves. We’re ready for you, they’re ready for you, and we’ll end with a little « Nos vemos pronto aqui », in Nicaragua.
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